TheBanyanTree: more Stories again
Tobie Shapiro
tobie at shpilchas.net
Tue Sep 26 08:15:41 PDT 2006
September 26, 20000000000000000000000000006
Deer Ewe,
I'm beginning to feel like I should stop. I need some
feedback. Someone tell me if this is getting old, or if it's still
being enjoyed.
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Oh, Estelle
Dweller and I went to Mexico City on our honeymoon. This was
way back in 1969. The little men had just landed on the little moon,
and the world was abuzz with space travel. We, however, stayed on
earth and took a plane to Mexico City. We had arranged to stay in a
nice hotel, had reservations and confirmation numbers. We planned
the whole thing through a reputable travel agent. We got a cab from
the airport, and were delivered to our fine establishment. It was
billed as a place that upper class Mexicans would stay. Oh good. No
tourists, we!
But something very wrong happened when we showed up. The
clerk at the front desk looked at us with a blank expression and
said, "I don't see a reservation." We were crestfallen, and also
befuddled. We showed him the printed confirmation. There. Right
there on paper. "Sorry," he told us, "Not in the book."
It took me at least a couple decades to figure out that that
was when we were supposed to hand him some extra money to make our
reservation appear in his book. But, instead, we turned around, and,
dispirited, dragged our luggage back to the curb. We hailed another
taxi, and told our sad story to the driver. He had a good idea where
we should stay, and said he'd take us there. Very clean. Very nice.
Maybe a little expensive. Fine fine. Just take us there.
So we stayed in hotel number two. There was a little
altercation with the room having two single beds, but they found us
one with a double after we begged them and added that it was our
honeymoon. This was our home base. It was pleasant, well decorated,
and the hotel restaurant made a delightful fresh vegetable soup that
I can still taste, with the raw egg cracked into it right before
taking it off the stove.
We amused ourselves walking around the streets in downtown
Mexico City. I had been warned to dress conservatively. Mini skirts
were all you could buy in the States, and I had to find older
clothing. But, damn, clueless, I wore my colourful tights, and this
attracted much unwanted stares. In fact, this being the old days
when I was buxom and zoftig, I attracted a lot of male attention.
Dweller didn't mind. He'd just smile at the men staring at me, and
pull me a little closer. Sometimes the men staring would be passing
a church. Every time they passed a church, they kneeled and
genuflected. So, sometimes, there would be a man crossing himself in
front of a church while oggling a young bride, his tongue hanging out
of his mouth.
We took side trips. One side trip was to Tasco, the silver
capitol of Mexico. We were scheduled to stay there one night, and
then return to our home base. We decided this would be our one
touristy jaunt. We'd booked what we thought were two seats on a tour
bus, but what showed up at the hotel was a private limousine. We
piled in the back seat, and looked out the window during the ride to
Tasco. Did I mention it was the silver capitol? Now we felt like
very ugly Americans, but there was nothing we could do about it.
Well, I suppose we could have taken public buses, but we weren't up
to that. So maybe we were ugly Americans. The driver of the
limousine was also our designated guide. He spoke English very well,
but had a clause that he kept repeating: "Now you will be about to
be able to ......." "Now you will be about to be able to see local
children selling Armadillos by the side of the road." "Now you will
be about to be able to arrive in Tasco." "Now you will be about to
be able to go to your room and you will be about to be able to meet
me in the lunch room in two hours."
So Dweller and I took ourselves upstairs and down the
colonnade to our new room. The hotel was a vast Spanish resort. In
fact, everything in Tasco from the street signs to a hot dog stand,
to a vast Spanish resort had to meet with strict requirements and
specifications. It all had to conform to the architecture and style
of a Mexican village in the 1800s. It gave the town an allure and
affixed it with a fantasy rather than a reality. We were frozen in
time, before airplanes, before television, before antibiotics. Our
hotel looked like something from a Hollywood set where Elizabeth
Taylor would be strolling the outdoor hallways with their rows of
grand arches, the rain pelting the ceramic tile roof, the lightning
illuminating the tin masks hanging on the walls.
Our room was another little fantasy, a quarry tile floor,
white bed linens on a wrought iron bed, an elaborate tin angel above
on the wall, an ornate mirror; the bathroom fixtures were old
fashioned porcelain. Every few minutes one of us flushed the toilet.
We each thought the other had forgotten to flush after a particularly
florid event. But when I turned on the tap in the sink, the truth
came out. The water was brown, opaque brown. And let's just not
think about it. It would be agua purificado for the squeamy ugly
American gringos.
We had two hours before we would be about to be able to meet
our guide in the comida. So, we decided to try out the bed. We got
in and started fussing around with skin and hair, when we were
interrupted loudly by a booming thick New York accent next door out
in the hallway. The speech came from a middle aged man that I
imagined was wearing an Hawaiin shirt stretched over an ample belly,
and bermuda shorts with his bare knees and shins spilling out below
the pant lines. Maybe he had a camera or two slung around his neck.
But it was what he said and how he said it that has kept his speech
in my permanent memory. This will stay in my craw long after I
forget my social security number. Remember the thick New York accent.
"Oh, Estelle! Ya know, I'm so emotional about leavin' owa
little room! Why if owa little room could only speak! Think what it
would say, preparin' for a new inhabidant!"
When we'd heard these words, we stopped all the foreplay, got
dressed immediately and went for a walk.
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--
Tobie Helene Shapiro
Berkeley, California USA
tobie at shpilchas.net
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