TheBanyanTree: Continuation - More from Guatemala

[apmartin at canada.com]

....We found out then that the others had even a worse
night.  They discovered cockroaches under one of the
mattresses and two of the women had slept together in a
single bed.  None of us were energetic as we met our
guide in the hotel’s dark courtyard and followed him
through the streets of Montericco.  It surprised me
that many of the locals were drinking coffee and
visiting at 5:15 am in the morning.  A ceremony was
going on at the Catholic Church on the main street and
it was decorated inside and out with sunflowers.  

....Continuation

As I moved past, I glimpsed dozens of worshippers
dressed in their finest clothes, sitting in the pews.  

The street vendors we passed, still sleepy, lacked
their usual aggressive manner.  During the day, the
streets of Guatemala can be very noisy.  Vendors often
attempt to out-holler their competitors when
advertising their wares.  This morning, after almost no
sleep, I welcomed the early morning calm.

Our paddle boat tour of the mangrove canals would take
about two hours. We would watch the sun rise in the
swamp, and, if we were lucky, view some wildlife.  
Leatherback turtles (an endangered species that can
grow to 6 feet and weigh up to 1300 lbs), Ridley
turtles (also endangered, up to 27.5 inches long and 90
lbs.), caymans (a type of crocodile that can measure up
to 10 feet) and many types of tropical birds resided
there.  

At the water’s edge, rows of wooden skiffs lined the
shore.  Some had roofs but the two rickety crafts our
two guides led us to, did not.  Each contained bench
seats to accommodate ten passengers.  I looked the
skiff over carefully before getting in, noting the
absence of life jackets.  After everyone was seated,
the guides stood at the rear and shoved off with the
long wooden poles they used to propel us.
  
It was still dark.  Stars twinkled overhead, throwing
enough light to define the dense vegetation on either
side of the river.  We glided through the water
soundlessly.  No one spoke.   As the sun rose, the sky
turned pink and purple.  We caught sight of some
pelicans nesting in the trees.  I hadn’t realized they
were so large.  These birds, we knew, fed on baby
turtles like those released the previous night.   The
silence, the bird cries in the awakening forest and the
soft, rippling sound of the dipping pole lulled me. 

The other craft passed us and led the way into a
boat-wide passage through tall reeds and jungle.  Here,
our guide strained to move the boat.  The shore seemed
to press in on us, as if reluctant to let us squeeze
through.  Some time later we came out in another lagoon
where I saw some tiny fishes that appeared to be
skipping across the top of the water.  Our trip was so
slow, so peaceful, that I nearly drifted off to sleep.  

We entered another narrow channel but this one was much
different from the first.  Here, we were in thick
mangroves where dense jungle obscured the light.  We
picked our way through clusters of above-water roots
resembling giant fingers.  Often, we had to flatten
ourselves in order to pass through them.  In this
cave-like maze, the mangroves’ trunks were rife with
giant ant’s nests that resembled man-sized black
growths.  I watched for snakes in the overhead branches
and crocodiles in the murky water, and wasn’t
disappointed when I didn’t see any.  They were there,
somewhere, but out of sight.

It was nearing 7:30 am when we landed the skiffs and
paid our guide.  We hadn’t seen a lot of wildlife;
still, it was a nice start to the day.  Subdued, we
returned to our hotel to shower before deciding to
breakfast at the same restaurant we had dined in the
previous evening.  Because none of us had stomach
problems after eating supper there, we were confident
the Pez de Oro (Golden Fish) used purified water.  

In Guatemala, none of the water is potable but the
majority of locals drink it anyway because they can’t
afford purified water.  Although they have built up
resistance to most of the bacteria, they are often ill.
 Visitors often contract stomach problems here; one
small mistake and you could become sick for weeks.  (I
have been lucky so far but many other volunteers,
including Andrew, have not.)

For the most part, the standard of cleanliness in
Guatemala is appalling.  There are no garbage
receptacles on the streets except in the largest
cities.  The ground is strewn with litter.  Because
there are few public washrooms, people find a quiet
spot and urinate on the calle (street).  Street vendors
seldom wash their hands before preparing food; they
don’t have access to running water.  And people spit
everywhere.  I’ve had to reprimand the boys at Casa
Hogar for spitting on the floor in their house.  

Although Andrew and I took all recommended shots and
vaccines before leaving Canada, there are many
potential health problems.  One can easily pick up tape
worms or other internal parasites. Respiratory
infections are common because of the dust and the
pollution.  And always, when working with children from
the slums there are the constant infestations of head
lice.  They aren’t a health risk they are distasteful. 

After our group enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, Natalie,
Helen and Katy headed back to our hotel.  Carina,
Andrew and I detoured to visit the Tortugario where
several endangered species are raised and released. 
The turtle hatchery was a garden-sized fenced area with
a wire roof to deter predators where rows of sandy
mounds (similar to potato hills) covered turtle eggs. 
There were enclosures of turtles, iguanas and
crocodiles at all stages of development and a primitive
museum with some pickled specimens.

When we returned to our hotel, we found our three
friends fast asleep in hammocks, oblivious to the
crashing surf in front of them.  I tanned near the pool
where some lime-green parrots watched from the low
branches of a shade tree.  They showed no fear when I
approached them so I assumed they were tame. Andrew
wanted to  take my picture beside them but when I
turned to face the camera one of the birds savagely
pecked my neck.  

At lunchtime, Natalie, Andrew and I set off in search
of a different restaurant to try. We took the dirt road
on the back side of the hotels that lined the beach. 
On the way, we passed a small spotted pig rooting in
the dirt.  Chickens wandered freely, undisturbed by
some sorry-looking dogs.  We decided to try Taberna El
Pelicano.  It was a clean, white plaster building that
was tastefully decorated.  A large white pelican walked
around its courtyard next to a decorative water
fountain and pond.

The food was excellent and the entertainment, free.  We
watched the pelican hop onto the side of the circular
cement pond and begin to swim around and around,
bobbing its head underwater.  Our waiter told us the
pelican had been shot and couldn’t fly so they kept the
pond stocked with fish. While we enjoyed vegetarian
curry the pelican feasted too.

When we finished, we moved closer to the pelican to get
a picture.  By now, it was out of the water, walking
around the yard.  Its rod-straight bill was some 18”
long with a small hook at the end.  Natalie sat on the
edge of the pool and used her hat to distract it so we
could snap a photo.  When I tried to do the same thing,
the pelican gave chase.  After being nipped by a
parrot, I had no intention of letting that huge beak
get hold of me, and I took off running.  The other
diners chuckled.

My cough was getting worse and my body was aching all
over. I planned to get into bed as soon as I arrived at
home.  

Our shuttle-bus was punctual (a rarity here).  I sat in
the front with the driver, and spent a good part of the
ride coughing out the passenger’s side window.  Still,
I wore a small smile as I reflected on my
mini-vacation.  Although we were only gone for a day
and a half, we all felt as if we had been away much
longer.  

In spite of feeling ill, I had a wonderful time in
Monterrico, and hoped I would find time to go back
before my flight home in December.